Guide: What makes a quality suit?

Written by: Nickolas Rodriguez Schwarz 


It might be the most obvious part. But the Label a suit is from tells you a lot of how it’s made since brands like Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Cesare Attolini, Kiton etc. only meet the highest standards possible.



It all begins with the fundament of the suit: the fabric.

There are many combinations of different materials used when producing a suit but the most common one is wool. A suit should never contain polyester if you are looking to buy a quality piece.

Ideally you’re looking for anything above a Super 100s wool. This means the fabric is smoother and has less thread count per meter, making it super soft and luxurious to touch and feel. A super 140s wool, or anything above this number is beautiful but simply impractical for most regular occasions.

But also the fabrics itself have different kinds of quality. Everything above a super 100s wool (measuring how fine the wool is) should be finde for a suit.

So a high quality fabric can be spotted by a soft and smooth look whereas the silhouettes of the suit should not cause "hard" lines.



Cut and fit

Nor extreme in a sense of too wide or too skinny is good. Find a middle way to flatter your assets. Also do not wear your jacket too short or too long. The brands we sell on guarantee you a nice fit when choosing the right size. 


The construction

It is certainly the part of a suit production which takes up the most effort. Starting with the lining you have unlined, half canvassed or fully canvassed suits. Either of those options should emphasise your body parts. If not, the construction process was not made well.

On a high quality suit the canvas is set in per hand whereas on a cheap suit it is glued. 

A classy suit should never be glued. The majority of the construction if not the whole process should be made by hand which you can spot when looking at the seam edge for example of the revers. 



Here, the material also plays a major role. The buttons should be made of horn which makes the suit look classy. Cheaper brands also use plastic what you should avoid. So do the button wholes matter as well. If they are sewn rather asymmetrical and not too perfect it should be sewn by hand which is a sign of quality. They should also work and when wearing you can let 1-2 buttons unbottoned on the sleeves. 


Keep it classy. Use a pocket square but do not overload your look with unnecessary accessoires. 

Note: When looking for a high quality suit every part should be equally paid attention to. The best construction combined with a low quality fabric would nullify the whole suit. 

Every suit sold on Sanpetuna is at a very high if not the highest point in terms of quality. So be confident choosing your suit on

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